Frequently Asked Questions

Most retaining walls fail due to hydrostatic pressure-the buildup of water in the soil behind the wall. If there isn't proper drainage (like weep holes or gravel backfill) or if the soil wasn't properly compacted during installation, the weight of the wet earth eventually pushes the wall outward.

Tiebacks are structural anchors, such as helical tiebacks or steel rods, that are drilled deep into stable soil or bedrock behind a wall. They "tie" the wall to a solid foundation, providing the necessary counter-tension to pull a leaning wall back into place and prevent future movement.

In many cases, yes. By addressing the root cause-usually poor drainage and soil compaction-we can often stabilize a wall using reinforcement methods like helical tiebacks or partial rebuilds that include new drainage systems.

It starts with digging to a depth that allows for a solid, compacted aggregate base. We don't just dig a hole; we ensure the "toe" of the wall is buried deep enough to resist sliding, and we excavate enough space behind the wall for a dedicated drainage zone.

Yes. Even walls as short as 3 feet need a way to manage water. Without a system of perforated pipes, gravel, and filter fabric, water will eventually find its own way out-often by cracking or collapsing your wall.

Standing water is usually a sign of compacted soil or poor grading. When soil particles are packed too tightly, they lose the "pore space" needed for water to soak in, creating a swampy mess.

We focus on "source control." This involves regrading the land so it slopes away from your foundation (typically 6 inches of drop in the first 10 feet) and installing high-capacity French drains to intercept water before it reaches your home.

A French drain is a trench filled with clean stone and a perforated pipe. It acts as a "path of least resistance" for water, collecting it from the soil and carrying it safely to a lower point on your property or a storm drain.

A single inch of rain on a standard roof can produce over 600 gallons of water. If your downspouts discharge right at your foundation, they are likely the #1 cause of your drainage issues. We can tie these into buried lines to move that volume of water far away from your house.

Absolutely. Drainage mitigation must be holistic. We analyze the "surface area" of the entire slope, including how much water is flowing onto your lot from surrounding properties, to ensure the system we build can handle the total volume.

Shifting usually comes down to improper excavation or poor compaction of the base. If the soil underneath wasn't packed down with professional equipment, or if the wrong type of stone "fines" were used, the patio will settle unevenly.

A long-lasting patio requires a minimum of 6 inches of compacted granular stone (like 2A modified) over undisturbed or heavily compacted subsoil. We also use geotextile fabric to prevent the stone from mixing with the soil over time.

Large hardscapes are "impervious surfaces," meaning rain can't soak through them. We design patios with a subtle pitch (1-2%) to guide water toward channel drains or decorative gravel borders so it doesn't pool in the center or flood your back door.

Compaction removes air pockets from the soil, increasing its density and strength. Without it, the weight of a new wall or patio will cause the ground to settle over time, leading to structural cracks and failure.What type of "stone" is best for drainage projects?We use clean, perforated-pipe-friendly gravel (like #57 stone) for drainage because it doesn't have "fines" (dust/small particles) that can clog your system. For structural bases, we use "modified" stone that packs into a rock-hard foundation.